Primitivo spent decades at the centre of a genetic mystery before DNA testing in the 1990s confirmed what many had suspected: it's the same grape as California's Zinfandel, both tracing back to an obscure Croatian variety called Crljenak Kastelanski. However it got there, Primitivo has thrived in Puglia's hot, dry climate, developing thick skins and high sugar levels that translate into deeply coloured, full-bodied wines with generous alcohol and ripe, jammy fruit. It typically shows a touch more restraint and earthiness than its Californian counterpart, without losing the variety's trademark richness. For the grape's American expression, Zinfandel is worth a look, and Puglia Wine covers the region behind it.